Men's skirts
Outside of Western cultures, men's clothing commonly includes skirts
and skirt-like garments; however, in North America and much of Europe,
the wearing of a skirt is today usually seen as typical for women and
girls and not men and boys, the most notable exceptions being the cassock and the kilt. People have variously attempted to promote the wearing of skirts by men in Western culture and to do away with this gender distinction, albeit with limited general success and considerable cultural resistance.
A group of upper-class Albanians
An Indian man wearing a veshti or mundu
A Sri Lankan man wearing a sarong
An illustration from between 1325-1335 showing an English man in a skirted garment
A saxophone player wearing a skirt
In Western cultures
Ancient times
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Ancient Hebrew, Greek, and Roman men generally wore some form of
tunic. Ancient Egyptian Pharaohs wore a wrap skirt known as a
shendyt, which was similar to modern kilts, while the high priests wore a wrap skirt similar to a sarong.
Both the Anglo-Saxons and Normans wore skirted garments, as can be seen in the
Bayeux Tapestry. These fashions continued well into the Middle Ages.
Decline
From the early
Victorian period,
there was a decline in the wearing of bright colours and luxurious
fabrics by men, with a definite preference for sobriety of dress.
[3][4][5]
By the mid-20th century, orthodox Western male dress, especially
business and semi-formal dress, was dominated by sober suits, plain
shirts and ties.
Revival
In the
1960s, there was widespread reaction against the accepted North American
and European conventions of male and female dress. This
unisex
fashion movement aimed to eliminate the sartorial differences between
men and women. In practice, it usually meant that women would wear male
dress, i.e., shirts and trousers. Men rarely went as far in the adoption
of traditionally female dress modes. The furthest that most men went in
the 1960s in this regard were velvet trousers, flowered or frilled
shirts and ties, and long hair.
[3]
In the 1970s, David Hall, a former research engineer at the Stanford
Research Institute (SRI), actively promoted the use of skirts for men,
appearing on both
The Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson and the
Phil Donahue Show. In addition, he was featured in many articles at the time.
[6]
In his essay "Skirts for Men: the advantages and disadvantages of
various forms of bodily covering", he opined that men should wear skirts
for both symbolic and practical reasons. Symbolically, wearing skirts
would allow men to take on desirable female characteristics. In
practical terms, skirts, he suggested, do not chafe around the groin,
and they are more suited to warm climates.
In the 1980s, a few male
celebrities dressed in skirts, and
fashion designers such as
Jean-Paul Gaultier,
Giorgio Armani,
John Galliano,
Kenzo,
Rei Kawakubo,
Marc Jacobs and
Yohji Yamamoto
tried to promote the idea of men wearing skirts, but the wearing of
skirts by men remained firmly linked with ideas of effeminacy. Lead
singer of
Korn,
Jonathan Davis, has been known to wear kilts at live shows and in music videos throughout his career of 18 years with that band.
Guns N' Roses' singer,
Axl Rose, was known to wear men's skirts during the
Use Your Illusion period.
In 2008 in France, an association was created to help spur the revival of the skirt for men.
[7]
Hot weather has also encouraged use. In June 2013, Swedish train
drivers won the right to wear skirts in the summer when their cabins can
reach 35 °C (95 °F),
[8] whilst in July 2013, parents supported boys wearing skirts at
Gowerton Comprehensive School in
Wales.
[9]
Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition
In 2003, the
Metropolitan Museum of Art displayed an exhibition, organized by
Andrew Bolton and
Harold Koda of the Museum's Costume Institute and sponsored by
Gaultier, entitled
Bravehearts: Men in Skirts.
[10] The idea of the exhibition was to explore how various groups and individuals (from
hippies
through pop stars to fashion designers) have promoted the idea of men
wearing skirts as "the future of menswear". It displayed men's skirts on
mannequins, as if in the window of a department store, in several
historical and cross-cultural contexts.
[11]
The exhibition display pointed out the lack of a "natural link"
between an item of clothing and the masculinity or femininity of the
wearer, mentioning the
kilt
as "one of the most potent, versatile, and enduring skirt forms often
looked upon by fashion designers as a symbol of a natural, uninhibited,
masculinity". It pointed out that fashion designers and male
skirt-wearers employ the wearing of skirts for three purposes: to
transgress conventional moral and social codes, to redefine the ideal of
masculinity, and to inject novelty into male fashion. It linked the
wearing of men's skirts to youth movements and
countercultural movements such as
punk,
grunge, and
glam rock and to pop-music icons such as
Boy George,
Miyavi and
Adrian Young.
[11] Many male musicians have worn skirts and kilts both on and off stage. The wearing of skirts by men is also found in the
goth subculture.
Elizabeth Ellsworth, a professor of
media studies,
[12]
eavesdropped on several visitors to the exhibition, noting that because
of the exhibition's placement in a self-contained space accessed by a
staircase at the far end of the museum's first floor, the visitors were
primarily self-selected as those who would be intrigued enough by such
an idea in the first place to actually seek it out. According to her
report, the reactions were wide-ranging, from the number of women who
teased their male companions about whether they would ever consider
wearing skirts (to which several men responded that they would) to the
man who said, "A caftan after a shower or in the gym? Can you imagine?
'Excuse me! Coming through!'". An adolescent girl rejected in disgust
the notion that skirts were similar to the wide pants worn by
hip-hop
artists. Two elderly women called the idea "utterly ridiculous". One
man, reading the exhibition's presentation on the subject of male
skirt-wearing in cultures other than those in North America and Europe,
observed, "God! Three quarters of the world's population [wear skirts]!"
[11]
The exhibition itself attempted to provoke visitors into considering
how, historically, male-dress codes have come to this point and whether
in fact a trend towards the wearing of skirts by men in the future
actually exists. It attempted to raise challenging questions of how a
simple item of dress connotes (in Ellsworth's words) "huge ramifications
in meanings, behaviours, everyday life, senses of self and others, and
configurations of insider and outsider".
[11]
Contemporary styles
The
wearing of skirts, kilts, or similar garments on an everyday basis by
men in Western cultures is an extremely small minority.
[citation needed] One manufacturer of contemporary kilt styles claims to sell over 12,000 such garments annually,
[13] resulting in over $2 million annually worth of sales, and has appeared at a major fashion show.
[14] According to a
CNN correspondent: "At Seattle's Fremont Market, men are often seen sporting the
Utilikilt."
[15] In 2003,
US News
said that "... the Seattle-made utilikilt, a rugged, everyday riff on
traditional Scottish garb, has leapt from idea to over 10,000 sold in
just three years, via the Web and word of mouth alone."
[16]
"They've become a common sight around Seattle, especially in funkier
neighbourhoods and at the city's many alternative cultural events. They
often are worn with chunky black boots," writes AP reporter Anne Kim.
[17] "I actually see more people wearing kilts in Seattle than I did when I lived in Scotland," one purchaser remarked in 2003.
[18]
In addition, since the mid-1990s, a number of clothing companies have
been established to sell skirts specifically designed for men. These
include Macabi Skirt in the 1990s, Menintime in 1999 and Midas Clothing
in 2002.
[19]
In 2010, the fashion chain
H&M featured skirts for men in its lookbook.
[20]
Wicca and neo-paganism
In
Wicca and
neopaganism,
especially in the United States, men (just as women) are encouraged to
question their traditional gender roles. Amongst other things, this
involves the wearing of robes at festivals and
sabbat celebrations as ritual clothing (which Eilers equates to the "church clothes" worn by Christians on Sundays).
[21][22] Some
denominations (called 'traditions') of Wicca even encourage their members to include
robes,
tunics,
cloaks, and other such garments in their day-to-day wardrobes.
In non-Western cultures
Outside of Western cultures, male clothing includes skirts and skirt-like garments.
[23] One common form is a single sheet of fabric folded and wrapped around the waist, such as the
dhoti/
veshti or
lungi in India, and
sarong in
South and
Southeast Asia, and
Sri Lanka.
There are different varieties and names of sarong depending on whether
the ends are sewn together or simply tied. There is a difference in the
way a
dhoti and
lungi is worn. While a
lungi
is more like a wrap around, wearing the dhoti involves the creation of
pleats by folding it. A dhoti also passes between the legs making it
more like a folded loose trouser rather than a skirt. In
Sub-Saharan Africa, sarong-like garments sometimes worn by men are known as
kanga (or khanga),
kitenge (or chitenje),
kikoy, and
lappa.
[24] In
Madagascar they are known as
lamba.
The Samoan
Lavalava
is a wraparound "skirt". These are worn by men, women and children. The
women's lavalava pattern usually have either traditional symbols and/or
a flower (frangipani) pattern. The men's lavalava have only traditional
symbols.
In
Sikhism, a faith that originated in the
Punjab,
there is a traditional dress which is worn by both men and women,
called a 'baana' or 'chola'. This dress has a skirted bottom and is worn
over long white undershorts. It was traditionally worn in battle by
Sikh warriors as it allowed free movement and remains a part of the traditional Sikh dress and identity.
Some long
robes also resemble a skirt or
dress, including the Middle Eastern and North African
caftan and
djellaba.
Other similar garments worn by men around the world include the Greek and Balkan
fustanella (a short flared cotton skirt), the Pacific
lava-lava (similar to a sarong), the Fijian
sulu vakataga,
[25] some forms of Japanese
hakama and the Bhutanese
gho.
Skirts that are called
qun(裙) or
chang(裳) in
Chinese were also worn by Chinese men in ancient times.
In popular culture
One notable example of men wearing skirts in fiction is in early episodes of the science fiction TV program
Star Trek: The Next Generation.
The uniforms worn in the first and second season included a variant
consisting of a short sleeved top, with attached skirt. This variant was
seen worn by both male and female crew members. The book
The Art of Star Trek
explained that "the skirt design for men 'skant' was a logical
development, given the total equality of the sexes presumed to exist in
the 24th century."
[26] However, perhaps reflecting the expectations of the audience, the "skant" was dropped by the third season of the show.
Dance
In some
Western dance cultures, men commonly wear skirts and kilts. These
include a broad range of professional dance productions where they may
be worn to improve the artistic effect of the choreography,
[27] a style known as
contra dance, where they are worn partly for ventilation and partly for the swirling movement, gay
line dancing clubs where kilts are often worn,
[28] and revellers in Scottish nightclubs where they are worn for ventilation and to express cultural identity.